SURFING IN AUSTRALIA
Spending the night on a plane bound for Australia with my girlfriend Alejandra is significant that it is going to be a different and authentic journey. We arrived in Sydney in celebration, a few hours before in Spain and we took our 1st trip to Sydney (Botanical Garden, Opera Sydney …) before renting a van, which would become our home for the next 2 months. Sydney and surroundings have such a high standard, amazing house, boats … but you quickly want to escape and give yourself your 1st bath.
When you travel to Australia you always think about how crowded it will be, sharks … when you return without a bite and having caught incredible waves, you think about the luck they have, the paradise where they live and especially how much they love, they understand And respect the surfing.
Our 1st stop was on the southern beaches and then we went up to Bondi ; Where everything that floats is in the water and if you stay on the shore you will flip with beach life, lifeguards, etc. Often dangerous is not the waves, nor the bottom, nor the sharks … but the amount of people in the water. If you want to see surfer motive, this is place. From Bondi to another mythical site like Manly . A quieter town / town than Bondi and where body worship (as in all of Australia) is a way of life. There are lots of beaches and a good point to the right, but as on all beaches, always surf worse waves than say there is or there was. Other good points x the area are Quenscliff (no +), Dee Why point (very good on rocks), Curl Curl (playita) and especially Narraben . To talk about Narraben is to talk about Tom Carrol, videos and a place very similar to France, with good tubes and waves and north of the beach (North Narraben) a very good left.
The good thing about this area is that the sites are relatively close to each other and there are many options; Such as Mona Vale, Bonga (good beaches), Newport Beach (nice place, waves), The Peak, Bigola, Whale Beach, Palm Beach and especially Avalon and Little Avalon (hilarious right and left). Good area for surfing daily.
Already in the Central Coast , or what is the same, a lot of distance between the beaches, waves, quick and tuberas, we got inside the Boodi National Park until arriving at Box Head . A spectacular site, away from everything where we had very good waves. From there to Mcmasters Beach and Copacabana (not Brazil, but the site is very cool). Avoca Beach, Terrigal, Forresters Beach, Shelly Beach, are beautiful towns, where there is everything , but not much wave quality. Free Camping.
The Entrance is a Marbella-style village with a huge beach, very sensitive to the wind. Pelican Beach and Norah Head are 2 pretty little beaches.
Blacksmiths in Swansea , is a windy open beach and Redhead & Dudley , are in a magical setting, but too hidden, for such a little treasure.
Newcastle seemed to me the Australian hardcore; A destroyer city and industrial, but at the same time alive, type Spain. The beaches are very close to one another and you have 6 Somo beaches less than 5 min. By car. Good waves in Bar Beach , Nobbis Beach (in the city), Dixon Park , Merewhether (home of Mark Richards, living legend and institution here) … area with parking on the beach and good waves.
North of Newcastle is Stockton , an industrial city, with some shelter from the wind and with the famous wave of The Signa , where a good left and right breaks on both sides of the boat, but do not think you’ll be surfing just under the boat Is infected with sharks. Sharky place.
Nelson Bay , has several beaches, but nothing of quality.
FORSTER / TUNCURRY
They are 2 beautiful coastal towns, where fishing and air holiday is always present. Very beautiful beaches like One Mile, Seven Mile Beach, Boomerang Beach … and especially Elisabeth; A beautiful beach, where it breaks a very hesitant right. Further south is the magical + place of this area, Seal Rocks , a place paradise, with a very bad reputation for sharks; There are cages to go see them within a few miles. Break a right in the middle of the jungle away from the rocks. Although it is very far and you have to cross chungas roads, it is worth stopping to surf for a couple of days.
In Tuncurry people surf in the estuary and in the beach. Forster has a quality right, which falls dry at first, breaking on rocks and leaving bubbles in its path.
Further north is Diamond Beach , + fame for how beautiful it is, than for the quality of the waves.
Nice town, but does not have very good waves, maybe the best wave is Lighthouse Beach (the lighthouse ); There are also waves in the estuary.
The Point Plomer beach is one of the places where + sea comes in, but without doubt the jewel of this area is CRESCENT HEAD . A long and funny right that breaks over rock / beach and that is a candy. Amazing place where to load piles and to spend a season surfing very good rights, next to dolphins and everything on foot of beach. Further north is a very nice beach, Grassy Heads , which is very close to another, SCOTTS HEAD; Located inside a nature reserve and through a camping you arrive at this wave wonder, which offers all kinds of maneuvers in its long right-hand route, which is stuck to the rocks and goes away. Enter less sea than in Crescent Head, but it is a mandatory stop, where to give you some good sessions.
Nearby is the town and beaches of Nambucca Heads, less quality than the previous ones and beaches like Beiby’s Beach and Shelly Beach. The best of this area for my taste was Sawtell Beach , more sheltered from the wind and with good tubular waves to the right of the beach and where we had a good scare, when Alejandra and another Australian surfer saw a shark pass very close. I still remember their faces.
From here to Coffs Harbor , harbor and fishing, we did not catch very good waves here the truth. To the suburbs there are several beaches, like North Saphire Beach , but there are not very good waves. What’s out there is a must-see way to Grafton at the LEGEND SURF MUSEUM ; Where will Scott Dilon , a living legend of surfing and a character, who will explain with enthusiasm 1 and 1,000 stories about surfing, his famous shark attack, his boards … you can spend all day hallucinating with everything, for only 5 $ AUD. Has an incredible collection of tables.
Very close is Moonee Creek , a nature reserve with funny, Garlic-type waves; Emerald Beach (very nice and beachside parking, shallow waves) and Sandy Beach (+ of the same).
+ Go ahead there are 3 very good waves within 3 min. By car: Mullaway (very nice beach, with a right breaking over a rocky point and sand to the right of the beach), Mullawarra and Arrawarra (right on rock and beach). Parking by the beach. Good options if you want to avoid overcrowding.
Direction to ANGOURIE you will arrive at Yamba , a tourist town with a few fun beaches and a couple of very good point breaks; But without a doubt, the treasure is at 20 min. Yamba … and his name is Angourie. A magical place, with natural pools where you can jump from the rocks and do the crazy, inside a nature reserve (like many of the sites in Australia). Nearby is a fun and very unstable beach, Spooky Beach.
Angourie is one of the best spots, a neck that breaks on rocks, with an initial tubal section, then stay caramelous to the shore. Easy entry and exit, a good place to live a season, or a lifetime. The people here have a lot of surfing, but it is respectful. Careful if you sleep, the guard will be willing to put you $ 350 x sleep inside a nature reserve.
+ Towards the north, there is Iluka , a place that people do not usually go, xq pilla very out of the way (I give faith) and where you will see (if conditions are given), good waves on both sides of the river.
North Wall & South Wall are good points, although very far away, for all those explorers looking for solitude shared with sharks. A thousand sites x explore in Main Beach Iluka , there are several tips with lots of potential, just like in Bluff Beach. Nature Reserve (30 minutes by car).
EVANS HEAD You have to deviate from the Pacific Hw1 about 20 km until you reach this beautiful fishing village; The best option is to cross the bridge and climb to the top of the hill, where is the lookout / viewpoint and from there, you will see how the river, the beaches and the right point. Very good point.
Ballina , a classic with a thousand options for surfing; In the Rivermouth, North, South Wall, beaches like Shelly beach … but with LENNOX HEAD less than 15 min. Drive north, if conditions are good, it is difficult to stay. From which you enter Lennox you smell and feel the sea and already in the lookout you will stay flipao with what you will see; A super-derechón on rocks, with thousand sections of tube, twists, cutbacks … eternal. Without a doubt, a world class wave, where you will see very good surfing. Mandatory stop, unique but, on the big days the entrance and the exit is an adventure.
Further north of Lennox, you will cross Seven Mile Beach , until you reach the Broken Head Nature Reserve, a good right, which needs a good sea direction, to start breaking over the islet of rocks, which is to the right of the Beach. Good Wave.
Then you will pass x Suffolk Park, until you get to a classic BYRON BAY , in my opinion (and I know there will be many people who disagree) + fame and name that super waves, although of course has its epic days. The good thing about this area is that there is always surfing. In Tallows is where + sea comes in, bus area. Wategoes is the swimming pool to learn. The Pass is the best wave, on good days it is an olon and when you are small, you will have to fight with a thousand longboarders. In The Wreck, (where the sunken ship is) comes a very good left and right. The best thing about Byron Bay is that it has many options within 5 min. He caught his fame in the past by waves, drugs and the hippie environment and of course everything, with time goes to prostitution, to become what it is today, the hippie town cool, where everyone late or Early passes a pleasant day, with all kinds of facilities, where besides surfing there are things. The lighthouse at Byron Bay, mythical photo in the + eastern part of Australia, will give you an idea of how it is all that day.
Leaving Byron Bay to the north, the first stop is Brunswick Heads , a beautiful beach, with waves inside the estuary and 2 sides of the pier. Fun. Going up + Pottsville, Koala Beach, Hastings Point are waves of little beach. CABARITA BEACH is for me taste of the best of this area. Protected from the wind x a hill, comes a fun right. Always crowded. Kingscliff & Fingal Headland , are 2 other options, but with Gold Coast so close, if there is sea, you will only think about arriving as soon as possible.
The GOLD COAST is 42 kms of pure fun and waves, with the road at the foot of the beach, you go looking for the best bathroom and park your van on the beach, with showers, bathrooms, BBQ … dream. With Duranbah (Diva), Snapper Rocks, Rainbow, Greenmount & Coolongata less than 5 min. By car, bike or walking … is the dream for any surfer. Always petado of people, but always you give good baths, culture of surfing to 100% …. Would take to many to see it so that they understand what is the respect. My 1st bath with Ale took Snapper great, maybe, along with Rainbow & Greenmount, was what was working best. Long straight, with a thousand sections, pure fun. The same wave starts quickly and tubular in Snapper, to stay caramelous of turns and cutbacks in Rainbow, to follow perfect x Greenmount and to surf even to Coolongata … + that nothing, not to return paddling, but walking x the border until Snapper and put you well before To choose a good wave and … back to the mess. No doubt this area is the best of the Gold Coast, although there are a thousand options, such as Duranbah (Diva), where + sea usually enters, there are always olitas, it is type France, with tubular waves to fly. It is located on the other side of the gazebo and depends on the day you will have better waves near the breakwater or in the middle of the beach..divertidísima.
SAVE KIRRA – It’s a shame that Kirra is not working, you can take a bath as if it were a little beach and suddenly link a good section, and even the sea days you can imagine what it was like, but of course it’s not Kirra … a shame. Dredged People are mobilized and worried; Logically, as the rest of the peaks do not work, they become congested and infected from Japos, Chinos, Indos … and especially from Brazilians (always heavy). It is fortunate to surf daily with a thousand pros like Occy (I jump a wave and I wish I had jumped +, xq gocé), Fanning, Parko, Morrison and with mythical people like Rabbit, Robbie Paige (authentic as always); Or inspiring people like Stephanie (the Hawaiian girl who attacks the tibu and surfs with 1 arm, brutal to see her the courage that she puts) … and with many + … .but a normal day, it is not exaggerated to say that in the water there will be 25% of Japos (respectful), 20% of Brazilians (the one who has traveled knows what there is), 5% of Europeans and 50% of Ozzys. This reality only complicates the journey; Once you have been lucky enough to catch your wave, you will have to avoid one and a thousand obstacles. That is really the Gold Coast, one of the meccas of surfing, but at the same time there is competition that is inside the water, that does not relax even a second in the water and you fight every wave, it makes surfing + radical than ever . This “healthy” competitiveness is what creates such good rippers. It delights to enter the water and see that any pureta (man / woman) breaks the wave; And then on the next see a pro fly; And then see a canijo break the wave; And then see a girl smash the wall; And then … “Look … I’m going !!”. What a rush is when you take your treasure and enjoy it until you reach the bank, passing x the different sections. You’re going to see the faces of the people. “What, you would like to be here, eh?” You think .. well “to fight that there comes another set” and that is the best; If this pumping (pumping) and you are in good shape, in the Gold Coast, x much that say, you become purple. “What would you like to wear + purple yet?” And who does not; But often surfing physically and also spiritually … surfing with your eyes, not just your waves, but those of others, inside and then out of the water, also full. If Australia is the place to be, the Gold Coast is the place to live.
Apart from this gold coast amusement park with a good wind and good sand banks, you can also have good sessions in Bilinga, Tugun, Elephant Rock (right on the rock), Currumbin (right in the middle of the The Beach , Miami, Nobby’s Headland, Mermaid, Broadbeach, Main Beach … but as I say, you’ll need luck, wind, bottoms and the sea to smile at you. If the wind is onshore, the best option will be the north of the Gold Coast, being The Spit , the place + protected, either in the estuary or on both sides of the jetty.
Another jewel of the Gold Coast is undoubtedly BURLEIGH HEADS , one of the places that + sea holds … and with a good sea direction and a good wind, will make you enjoy and intubate as never before; Yes, do not trust, or hurry too much, the last turn or you will see your body against the rocks (vi + of 2). A very funny wave in a wonderful place.
The Gold Coast is a paradise for any surfer, not so, what you will find in the Babylonian SURFERS PARADISE , pure skyscrapers, the Australian Marbella, all in the guiri-fast food style, where Sea World is the best option if the plate arrives in the zone.
Also nearby The Spit has South Stradbroke (TOS) The Other Side and Southport Island. Further up from Brisbane the options will be North Stradbroke Island and Moreton Island (good searching, good waves).
CONCLUSION GOLD COAST If you think that you are going to raid on the Gold Coast, + it is worth nature to put yourself on your side and epic sessions, xq but, frustration will take over you and only give you bad site and roll 200 anxious like you, who will try to snake you all around.
However, if you go with a good mentality, without obstacles in the coconut, with the chip to enjoy, thinking that you are there only, with the dolphins (as Sergio Dalma hehe) and those queens rights … if you are able to find a good Tuning, a good flow with the sea … surely, it will be like this when you give some of the best sessions of your life. Long right, with tube, wall and path. When you catch one of those bombs you will be surprised how much the Australians understand and respect the sea … and the rest of the surfers. Much ++++++ of what is done here. That is when you will want another and another + and only if you are with a good chip, the sea will give it to you.
“This is not a good place for work, it’s a good place for soul surfers”
The most dangerous thing on the Gold Coast will not be the sharks, of course there are, nor the local Bra Boys, there are also, but you do not tip someone in the head, or in an eye, or you A Japanese fall from the sky, as I step out of a spoon (I still do not know where it came from), or you rolled someone while trying to make a spoon … and especially the sun, scorching from dawn to sunset. It is an idyllic spot for those looking for stress (or 4), a perfect place for those looking for “surf rage” or “aggro surfing”, but certainly a magical place for that within that stress (or 4) Be able to tune in with the sea and benefit from how much it will give you. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
In my stay at the Gold Coast I wrote a “poetry-prose” (very daring to call it that) that reading it here, I think it makes a lot of sense … and says like this:
SO S “WHAT COMES TO US … WE CAN STILL CHANGE IT”
Massification, globalization, disrespect, total selfishness … that was your education,
Anything goes while you’re catching waves, “the problem?”
Every time + people, every time – waves
Each time – respect, every time + aggressiveness;
Until everything does BOOOM !!!
“And now that?”
We could imagine it, predict it, feel it, but while you were purple, everything was fine.
“And now that?”
Now the anarchy is already in your life and on your beach.
Now that hierarchy and respect that you fought so hard was lost.
Now your enjoyment is your stress and cronyism became individualism;
It’s not just you anymore … it’s me … and I … and I …
How beautiful that time, how beautiful the memories.
How crazy it is today; “It’s mine !!!” “Not that I’m going !!! “
That “if I put myself first” “I did not do it myself”
That “if I was + fit” that “if I put an oyster?”
This is how the current rotates in which you move,
Thus flows the flow of your sea.
You were already conscious, as a prophet of his land, but of the sea;
To whom you loved and respected so much,
To whom you believed inexhaustible x your wealth … now it is,
When you are aware of its fragility.
You cry your sorrow, your tears fill your face with rage, knowing what is coming.
You already enjoyed, you already lived,
But you know that what you did,
Your children collect
And they do not deserve it.
Cruel life, with life
“Why should not it be with the sea?” Nachete
Leaving Brisbane on one side and going up north the next stop worth a stop is CALOUNDRA ..where you will find many beautiful beaches like Shelly Beach , Kings, Dicky , Happys and especially Moffats , a fun right on long-distance rock, Idyllic for longboarders and with some good section. Definitely the best wave in this area.
Go up towards Noosa towards the north, we will pass beaches like Wurtulla and Kawana (sin +) and once in the beach of Mooloolaba you will see to the right Point Cartwright , with the lighthouse in the high; It needs sea, but it is one of the best waves in the area. Already in Maroochydore you have 2 options: or the waves of little beach in the middle or the right that leaves on flat rock in the right corner of the beach.
Alexandra Headland (The Bluff) is a very funny right wing wave, but for the amount of longboards there are; A classic throughout the Sunshine Coast.
From Maroochydore to Mudjimba , a beach that looks a lot like Somo, with an island in front that is surfing, Santa Marina type, but with sharks.
The next beach is Marcoola , they are very open beaches and exposed to the wind. When they break well, the points will always be better. Coolum is a very nice beach and where + sea comes into the area.
Peregian Beach is an open beach and exposed to the wind, with its super skate park at the foot of the beach. Marcus Beach and Sunshine Beach are just about the same.
The good thing about the Sunshine Coast is that the road goes close to the coast and you will see the spots with ease. Highly recommended to go to the Eumundi market (beautiful) on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
NOOSA NATURAL RESERVE QUEENSLAND
As soon as you get to Laguna lookout, you’ll understand the magic of the place where you are.
NOOSE HEADS Declared in 1939 as Noosa National Park, it is a flippant place, where the state will be impregnated with its magnetism and has a lot of history surfer and where there are no waves, you will have many other interesting things to see and do. From walking within the 5 routes (tracks) that has the park (1) Palm Grove Circuit 2) Tanglewood Track 3) Noosa Hill Track 4) Coastal Track 5) Alexandria Bay Track); To relax on its paradisiacal beaches or go in search of a koala. Without a doubt the most beautiful path is the Coastal Track; 5’4 km one way and 10.18 km round trip. You’ll walk to Dolphin Point , then Hell’s Gates and Hell’s Gates to Sunshine Beach, past Alexandria Bay, Lion Rock and Devil’s Kitchen. An incredible path where you will go through a forest, looking like a jungle and without losing sight of the sea and the waves. Beautiful walk that you will do daily in search of the best spot.
Noosa has a lot of charm and a lot of surfing history; Since it began to be one of the hippies / surfer routes, like Byron Bay, until today … that legend is still alive; Especially every time a strong cyclone enters and Noosa pumped to its full potential; Which comes to be + or – every 2/3 months. Although it is a wave that needs sea, its rights and its strength will amaze you from the ¼ meter and with ½ meter and 1 meter you will enjoy … and with + size you will be a lucky one that made the right decision, being placed in the exact point to the Exact time.
Noosa is a wave candy, with a lot of magic and legend since the Bob McTavish, Greenough (left legged kneeboarders), Nat Young … enjoyed in their time until today, where you will find one of the meccas for all lovers of longboarding and The retro rollito, of which to this day I exclude myself; And is that I think surfing has evolved so much, that returning to ancient shapes and shapes can enrich your surfing if you do so sporadically; But from there to believe you a mythical by surfing all day with a single or a twifin taken from the garage … I think it’s + flipe, that soul surfing.
Being such an easy wave there is a lot of crowding in the water and plenty of longboards. If you surf with your shortboard, you will have to fight hard, paddle the rocks, and as soon as you catch your first waves in Tee Trees or Granites , you will immediately understand the magic and the quality of these rights.
On the shore you will be amazed by the amount of puretas and retro fashion, which is not only to have the table, but also a whole aesthetic, with its haircut, shorts, van. Fashion, there is everything.
Get up inside this natural park with the sound of birds and take a morning walk with the dawn, to the viewpoint of Boiling Point , to see how this Tee Trees, is a wonderful routine that you never get bored.
On a good cyclone day you will be able to surf from Main Beach, which normally is full of children and apprentices, until Johnson (quick section and tubera) and of course Boiling Point, Tee Tree & Granites. Fame (in my opinion rightly) is worn by Tee Tree; Is the highest quality wave, breaking on rocks and away to the beach stuck to the bay. It has tubular sections, maneuvers, beautiful cutbacks … a very long wave. The worst, the amount of people and when they are small the longboards. If you want to escape a bit of this, continue walking along the Coastal Track, until you reach the next viewpoint, Dolphin Point, where you will see the bay and the wave of Granites. Very good this wave too and usually have + size than in Tee Tree and less people. To stay the sea, following the road of the coast you will arrive to Alexandria and walking a little + to Sunshine Beach.
Noosa is a hot spot, where you surf with giant tortoises, dolphins and a thousand species … if you enter with glasses and a pipe fliparás the beauty that moves under the waves. It is one of the many sites that give a lot of pain to leave and you know that it remains for life inside your head and your heart forever … and come back or not, you will be aware that you have been a lucky, to have enjoyed during A time of magic and beauty of a paradise on earth, that although it is already known and enjoyed by many, you will always find your corner, your good moments, your memories and your waves …
Paradise on Earth; The island of sand + long of the world, with 123 kms of long and 15 kms of width. World Heritage since 1992, after several years of struggle between conservationists and commercial interests, due to its immense mineral wealth. With the Dingo (a dog / wild hyena) as a symbol of the island and with over 40 fresh water lakes, with trees growing on the sand and a dense and rich forest, it is an ideal place for nature lovers And good walks. With gems such as Lake Mckenzie (with its crystal clear waters), creeks like Eli Creek and the famous 75-mile beach, it’s a site that looks like something out of a novel. There are a thousand routes and a thousand excursions to do. You will leave from Rainbow Beach , a beach with olitas and dunes and sand of a thousand colors; A very nice village where people camp (with permission of the Rangers) before the big date with Fraiser, very close to Noosa. You will cross an immense 4 × 4 truck on Ferry to Fraiser Island. Surfísticamente the island with a 4 × 4 can be a paradise. Of course it has a lot of potential … but also a lot of sharks. 2 weeks before we arrived, a fisherman sacked a 2-meter tibu from the shore with his rod.
To the right of Rainbow beach is Double Island Point , you can walk from Rainbow (1 hour) or in 4 × 4 if someone wraps up and takes you. Once there, you may encounter a dilemma: a spectacular olon, surely one (but the +) of the long + rights of the east coast of Australia, with very few people or no one, due to the difficulty of arriving and especially the suspicion To enter, by the amount of stories and sharks that there is; If you dare and you get a good swell, you can catch the waves of your life.
No doubt this area is amazing, with incredible beauty both outside, and inside the water, with a living sea, which intimates, but at the same time calls you.
Australia is certainly a paradise for any surfer, not only for the quality of waves, but also for quantity. That you do not surf, it will depend only on you and what you move and look for. It is clear that in the points of popularity, or in the Gold Coast will not catch all you want, except in counted baths, but still, you will enjoy your surfing and the level of the many rippers there are, not only young guns , But old rifles that continue to keep the sight very fine and tight.
Surfing culture wherever you go, where surfing is sport and sport is cultured in Australia. People love to run, play rugby, cricket … drink.
Australians are very good people and the respect that is inside the water, I hope it will be seen some day in Spain. Even with 200 in the water people understand surfing and they know how to be and behave in the water. They feel the surf, they love the surf and they mainly understand surfing.
The beaches are a pass and are cared for and prepared for the enjoyment of all the people, with their forests, electric barbecues, benches, tables, showers, skate parks at the foot of the beach … the truth that gives envy, especially seeing here Also could have done the same and can still be done, if the town councils had a little + view and things were not thinking about today (me and my enjoyment), but on tomorrow (and enjoy ours) .
The beach culture, the invasion of the Japanese and Brazilians, the cult of the body, the importance and the recognition of the lifeguard and the rescuer … and peace and tranquility; And it is that in Australia one lives very well; But take a walk around Sydney and surroundings to understand, that luck is not always achieved by provoking it, but sometimes, your place of birth will negatively or positively influence your quality of life. In any case, as always when you travel and leave home, in the end you are aware that what we have here, is also very good and we must take care of it, pamper it and take full advantage of it … and above all be prepared so that when that massification, which Coming on our beaches will arrive … and will arrive, know how to act and react, so that they continue to enjoy the surf, the sea and its lessons … many + generations
TEXT: NACHETE GARCÍA
SURF CANTABRA SCHOOL