SURF IN GHANA
Since returning last year from Senegal, I had in mind to return to Mama Africa as soon as possible and Ghana is a country that has always attracted me. The initial idea of the trip was to make Ghana and Ivory Coast, but after having problems with my visa, fate wanted it to remain for more than a month in Ghana.
This is a little story about my trip, the life and the waves of Ghana … .I hope you like it.
There is another Gold Coast outside of Australia … and that is in Ghana.
Traveling alone in Africa, with a backpack and the tables, is something that I had done before and it has not been a problem; Although there are moments lost in the middle of nowhere, all you will find are farmers with machetes, whom you greet with a smile and that is what God wants … and God always wants good.
If you look at the map and you are looking for Ghana, you will understand that it is a place where a lot of sea comes in and really it is, no day has dropped by half a meter and many days there have been good waves, with an average meter to 2 meters.
There is very little tourism in Ghana and that despite the fact that it is a safe and relatively comfortable country to travel. 15 years ago it was an unstable country, but today its reputation for danger is unjustified. After traveling all over the country, I think it is a good destination to start in African culture and surely in 5-10 years, it will be one of the most important tourist destinations in Africa.
Highlight the figure of Kwane Nkrmah , one of the most important presidents in the history of Ghana. He was the first president of the country and with whom independence was obtained in 1957. It is very well considered throughout Africa and especially in Ghana. With his ideas of Africanism and his idea of African Unity , it resembles the figure of Garvey in Jamaica, or Selassie in Ethiopia.
Ghana has a thousand landscapes and colors, but the green (forests, jungles ..) is the predominant. It rains little, but when it does it is scary. Getting up in Ghana every day, is knowing that it will be intense and different from the previous one.
Do not expect great amenities during the trip, unless you pay them at European prices, but if you have doubts, just walk around and you will see what hardships and needs are and you will definitely feel lucky.
Of course there is poverty and hard things you see every day, but at the same time there is a lot of beauty and a lot of hope. Do not forget that Ghana is an emerging country; Now the 2nd African power, after South Africa and with the new discovery of oil, gas and new gold mines, if they manage well and are not sold to the West, or make a bad use, as Nigeria (impossible to travel now) , Can be an important source of income for the country.
Institutionally English is the language, but the reality is quite different and is spoken African. Due to the complexity of the country there are multiple languages and dialects, being the twi, fante, ashanti … depending on the region in which you are, the most talked about. So you will find out very little and many times there is no one who speaks English, yet wanting is power and always end up understanding. There are many Ghanas within Ghana. The coast, has nothing to do with the interior and in fact, in the smaller towns, is where you will feel more tranquil and secure.
The African Rhythm . Ghana is music, it’s rhythm, it’s partying. From the moment you enter until you leave the country, the sound of the djembes will not stop enveloping you. Together with Senegal and Mali, it is one of the countries that exports more music to the world. Everyone dances at all hours and you may not have to eat that day, but the pace is never lost. In the evenings, it’s worth going out and going to the clubs and parties that ride on the percussion beach and watch them dance and how they move … The African Beat . I’ve seen some of the best reggae concerts I’ve ever seen in my life and music … ALWAYS music. The Rastafari movement , to the hymn of ONE LOVE , is present in every corner of the world, but after Jamaica, Ghana is undoubtedly the country where most ” true dreadlocks” I have known and its philosophy is the way of life of many Ghanaians. The ghanja is everywhere and is one of the smells that will not leave you during your entire trip. People seeing my rastas would greet me with a “White Rasta” “Irie”, “Bless I” “Selassie I” “Jah man” “Soldier” … and every time someone comes to you, especially at night, they will sell you His rastafarismo and its Babilon is fallin’. To me personally, I am in love with reggae, I have really enjoyed this trip and if you like reggae, African music, acrobatics and dancing, Ghana is a paradise. Better smokers than drinkers, there are many throughout Ghana, especially in ports. They do not know how to drink and they get very heavy. A tip: do not drink what they call ” apetaizer ” enter well, but the next day you will want to die.
Another of Ghanaian follies is football. You will see pachangas everywhere, especially from 3pm, which ends the classes the kids. It is spectacular to watch them play. They play physically, hard and sit at dusk anywhere and watch a party is flipante. Live football passionately and in that sense, that Spain won the world cup when you say that you are Spanish. By the way, most are from Barcelona. Just when I’ve been was the African Cup and how you live football, you party whenever you won Ghana. The pity they lost in semis. I remember in the stadium of Accra the match of the Black Stars of Ghana against Tunisia. Giant screen, the petado stadium and the only white. Gano Ghana 2-1 in the overtime and before the game people touched me, saying that the target was going to bring them luck. Every goal, people hugged me and jumped around me like crazy. A party and one of the highlights of the trip. After the game, everyone partying on the street, cars pumping, musics and rumba in James Town and all over Accra.
There is a lot of poverty. People sleep on the ground in the streets, there are images that can not be forgotten, but still, people do not lose the desire to dance, have fun and their kindness. Many times you will find yourself in surreal and dangerous situations. Stuffed in all the nougat. Of course there are ruinillas, but in Spain there are also. Good and bad people all over the world.
I arrived in ACCRA , the capital of Ghana, at night. My 1st impression was good. It is a very modern city, full of contrasts, friendly people and although chaotic at times, you will feel less pressing than in other places. As you leave the plane you will feel the heat and the humidity …. the adventure begins, you are in Mama Africa again.
The first Ghanaian word you will learn will be AKWAABA (Welcome) and you will feel it during the trip.
One of the phrases of the trip ” It is nice to be nice “
The city of Accra is modern, noisy (thousands of taxis), chaotic, full of contrasts, smells, dirt, traffic, at times overwhelming, but at the same time it is the safest African capital for which I have walked and you feel safe losing you By the city, both day and night. I have loved this city and I am not very big cities. One of the poorest neighborhoods, but with more rhythm of the city is James Town . One of my favorite places, next to the markets, of the capital. It’s a good place to go out at night and have a few stars , the local beer.
Accra has surprised me very positively and it is the 1st African capital that I have not been in a hurry to leave and I have felt safe walking everywhere.
At ACCRA , there are several waves and reefs, but being inside the city are very dirty spots and the only spot that was remarkable and where I had my 1st fun sessions was LA BEACH . A huge beach with many peaks, but the best is definitely in front of the Hotel Labadi Beach . The beach, like many in Ghana, is pretty dirty, but it’s worth getting wet and catching the surfing feeling after the plane ride. Its waves are fast and fun left and right. There are many hustlers in this area and eye your things on the beach. I recommend leaving them in the chiringuitos that there are, so that they take care of them.
Here, I saw one of the most amazing things of the trip. After buying a banana for a woman, I saw a white tourist passing by with one of the horses they rented on the beach. Her horse stepped out of control in front of me and just streamed this woman from behind. Almost killed her, broke it and then got a good fuck, until the police arrived (corrupt) and the tourist asked for more than $ 1,000. From dream to nightmare in a second, that too can be Africa.
In Ghana tension is felt all the time. There goes the white man, there goes $ … but nevertheless, they will ask you once, maximum two times, but they will never be heavy.
To the east of La Beach, there is a beautiful beach, COCO BEACH that has olitas.
The days are long, intense and hot, while the nights are wet. Be prepared to sweat like a chicken, especially when it comes to staying in places without a fan, or just no electricity (a classic). The mosquitoes are there, they have their happy hours and no mosquito net as I have been, it is more paranoia, since you know that Malaria is heavy in Ghana and it is a reality. There are many types of malaria and it usually affects the weakest (children and the elderly), but think of one thing: In Africa you do not get sick, do not get sick and if you feel bad, cold, tremors, your bones hurt … 90% of the time it will be Malaria, so do not wait and go to the hospital, because unfortunately, they are very accustomed and will give you a couple of punctures in the ass and once you return “the bug” will be the end. Malaria disease remains a major cause of death in Ghana today, along with AIDS. Life is hard and wild, but full of smiles and happiness.
One of the things that caught my attention is that on Tuesdays there is no fishing in Ghana, because God created the sea and the fish that day. They are very religious in Ghana. Many believe in white christ, there are many preachers and on Sundays it is spectacular to see churches overcrowded with devout Christians. Although the masses are very different, with dances and African songs. All the names of businesses, bars, chop bars, echo their devotion with an ” In God we trust “, ” Only God can judge me ” …
Another of the things that impacted me was the problem of SLAVERY and the amount of forts and castles that are all over Ghana, especially on the coast. There is not a single town on the coast that does not have a fort, where it was stored (it is estimated that more than 20 million Africans) to the slaves, before being sent to America crossing the Atlantic. 400 years of slavery , can not be forgotten.
EAST OF ACCRA
After spending a few days in Accra, I decided to travel east to Togo . In the south there are a couple of places that are well worth it and although there are less waves, people have very good vibes and are less accustomed to tourism. The 1st stop was in TEMA , 30 min. To the east of Accra. It is where the big ships and the biggest port of Ghana are. The city is not at all pretty and it is super noisy. But to the east there are two incredible fishing beaches, PRAMPRAM and NINGO . But, for me the most beautiful of this area is ADA FOAH , which is right at the mouth of the Volta River. The beach connects with the river, creating a heavenly landscape. COCOLOKO beach is famous, but it’s pretty dirty. In this area it is easy to see many turtles. Entering the Volta is one of the best things you can do in this area. There is a ferry and taxi-boats that cross the river.
Between the Volta river and the border with Togo, lies the KETA lagoon. All this area and the road are flipantes and are full of lonely beaches, where to surf small waves. More than 100 km where you can scrape some bays, until you reach Aflao , a border town, before reaching Togo (where there are also very good waves). Honestly, I would not spend more than 4 or 5 days in this area, because although there are waves and many beautiful beaches, it is not the best surfing spot in Ghana. From choosing a place, I would stay with ADA and for the more adventurous I would enter inside the river Volta or Lake Keta and you will see some of the most amazing villages of the trip and will be an unforgettable experience.
I have spoken very well of the region east of Lake Volta , but I did not arrive. HO , capital of the Volta, surely worth it. I know that it is an area of kente weavers and there are waterfalls Wli (AGUMATSA) , which are among the most beautiful in the country and is the biggest tourist attraction in eastern Ghana. It is an ewe and Ashanti area and although there is a border with Togo, everyone says they speak the same language. This is the highest zone of the country, with Mount Afadio (885 meters) being the highest peak of the country, in full border with Togo. In HOHOE you will find the waterfalls of Agumatsa, Tsatsudo and Liati Wote . KPANDO is where you take the ferry to cross the Volta and is a good place to buy pottery.
Back to Accra and start the adventure to WEST OF ACCRA.
KOKROBITE – It is 1 hour west of Accra. The village is authentic and at night the houses are transformed into food stalls. At the foot of the beach there is a very cool place to stay, Big Milly’s . The best peak is in front, with left and right shore waves and to the right of the beach there is a small point break of rights. The beach is very long, a paradise with palm trees, warm water and is one of the cleanest. The site is dangerous and I give faith, because I tried to dock two guys with a razor, while running on the beach. The worst experience of the trip, but after fighting and hooking one of them and coming to my aid two fishermen, came the most surreal situation of the whole trip. In the police station, to see her, the boy had to say that I had hit them by the face and there was a moment of tension, in which I thought I was going inside, but after clearing everything, the commissary promised me that they would find the other, the Of the knife, that ran out to see the fishermen, while he looked me in the eyes, opened the cell, where was the boy with whom I had hit and invited me to enter saying “when you finish knocking on the door “. As in Las Vegas, what happens in Ghana stays in Ghana. In cold, after thinking it, I was surprised by my reaction. I am a man of peace and rarely I fight, but a thousand pulsations, docking you in the back, with a knife, without understanding if they wanted to dock me, because I did not take anything, kidnap me or know that, one fights for his life. Thank God, nothing happened to me and thinking about all the places where I’ve been in Ghana, traveling alone, the amount of people that you cross with machetes, the amount of opportunities they have to give it to you … I can assure you that Ghana is a very insurance. Mainly for two reasons: 1) People love and respect each other after so many years of conflict. 2) They fear the police and rightly so. It is corrupt and they will try to bribe you. Dont let you. I have seen many times how they stop a taxi, or a tro-tro and ask the driver for money.
In Kokrobyte, for the second time in my life, I almost died for a coconut tree, this time the whole tree not only the coconut.
Everyone makes life on the beach, in fact the beaches in Ghana are used as bath and dump. It’s a shame, but it’s a reality. Many people do not know how to swim and think that shit better at sea than in the streets. Shit floats and is on all the beaches, in some more than in others, some you risk and surf, despite being able to catch infections, in others you can surf without problems and in many you will not even get your foot in the Water. Trash is a reality in all of Africa … enough to think about what to eat that day and fight for a hard life … and it is that depends on where you are born, you will have one reality or another.
Each time I went with my board to many places in Ghana, the children followed me and when they reached the beach, more children, curious and fishermen came to play, as if an alien had just arrived in his village. As he began to row the sea, the whole town began to scream. Every time I surfed a wave, people went crazy and screamed, they were seeing something new for the first time and when they came out of the water, everyone was touching me again. Honestly, I’ve surfed in many parts of the world, but every session in Ghana has been something magical and unrepeatable. It has been one of the most beautiful experiences of my life. So much expectation, so much public … “what does that crazy white man do?” I think I’ve been with a permanent smile on the water. All the children of Ghana surf with wooden boards, roof pieces, canoes and corks and it is flipante to see them as they enjoy the surfing. Kokrobrite is one of these sites. To be in the beak with a few children, to exchange boards, to teach them to surf and to see them to enjoy, is very gratifying thing.
I’ve seen good concerts here and it’s a haven for dreadlocks. There is a strong tradition of percussion here and much rastafarismo. There is a reggae studio in the village and many artists. On February 7th, I celebrated the anniversary of Bob Marley in a gig of reggae that is at the crossroads of the town and I was in a reggae and sound system concerts of the best I have ever seen in my life. Here live great masters of percussion. It is a good place to teach djembe and African dance classes. At night you will hear the djembes roar and the people dancing and smoking in the heat of the bonfires. From my favorite travel sites. Highly recommended .
5 kms from Kokrobite is the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. A small reserve, inside a small village, where you will see the monkeys running free and you will see how the people of the surrounding villages will come to collect water from the spring. Worth the site.
Leaving Kokrobite, the next stop was NYANYANU , a fairly simple fishing village, which has a right-handed wave at low tide, right at the mouth of the river. The truth that the bumpy road and distance offer little reward and unless this very large, I do not recommend this site. What I strongly recommend is the fishing village of SENYA BERAKU , where you can stay in the old castle of FORT GOOD HOPE , which gives its name to this wave. The town is amazing, with lots of life and fishermen that enter and leave the port with their wooden canoes. From the castle, now converted into a humble hotel, where you can stay for less than 10 euros a night, you see the whole beach and the wave. For my taste, one of Ghana’s best right point breaks. The castle, used to store slaves not so long ago, has postcard views and a small beach underneath with crystal clear water. The wave is soft, but at low tide it has very funny sections. The vibe of the castle is strange and one of the worst nights of the trip; I do not know if by the old spirits trapped between the walls of the old fort, or by the nightmares that many times malarone against malaria produces.
I recommend at least spend a couple of days here, because the place well deserves it. From Senya-Beraku to FETE there are only 6 km. Fete is a pretty dilapidated village, but they are building beachside resorts for tourists and it looks like it will change in the near future. To this day, along with Senya-Beraku are two villages that live up to the day, in misery and survive through fishing and fruit. Fete has a river and a huge beach, which although dirty, is very nice and has a couple of picture panoramas. The wave needs some sea. I surfed half-metric and it is certainly one of the right-most point-breaks of all Ghana. The wave is fast, fun and very long. In addition, it is protected from the wind. I recommend surfing it, because the site is magical. It is full of children with wooden boards that surf to chest. This area is the best when it comes to surfing. Highly recommended .
From Fort Good Hope (ironic name) travel to WINNEBA. A huge beach, with a bustling fishing port and left and right-bankers’ waves, finding the best peak in front of the Charles Tourist Center . Fun bathrooms, but nothing spectacular. From here I moved in tro-tro to APAM , but the beach, like many along the entire Ghanaian coast, leaves much to be desired, for the amount of shit that is on the beach and in the water. It has a fort of slaves and a port. The town is cool, but I do not recommend this place very much for surfing.
The whole road to Cape Coast is quite close to the coast and there are many waves, but almost always there is access to the beach, it is because there is a village and its inhabitants use the garbage beach. It is a shame, but it is a classic in Ghana and unless the wave is away from big towns and cities, get used to surfing between plastics and shit. The big cities do not invite much to surfing and in rainy season nor tell you what goes down the rivers to the sea. Two clear examples of this are SALTPOND and ANOMABU .
Where I recommend to stop is in the beaches of BIRIWA and MOREE , two beautiful beaches and with olitas.
CAPE COAST – I arrived at night and my first impression was of love at first sight. In the middle of the golden coast, it is one of the largest cities and walk through its streets and get lost in its port is fascinating. However, the port and port beach is a landfill. All the right and left part of the castle (World Heritage) that presides over the hill are not very suitable for surfing. Still, I recommend spending a couple of days here, because the city is well worth it and the people are lovely. On the outskirts of Cape Coast, in front of the universities there are waves, but if you saw what I have seen in the city, you would never touch the water. The old town and the main market are flippant. I was very aware that the crab is the animal of worship in this city, with a monument in the center, but after two days and several walks along the beach, I quickly understood why. I also recommend visiting Global Manas Cultural Workshops , which is an association that helps women and which was very close to where I was staying. I was impressed to see what they did and how they work the craft. If you are in Cape Coast, you can not miss the KAKUM National Park. The Kakum River supplies water to more than 100 cities, including Cape Coast. At 1 hour from Cape Coast in tro-tro, this reserve has one of the biggest attractions in the country. 7 hanging bridges ranging from 11 to 80 meters high and although it is somewhat touristy, it is worth it. Here you can find all kinds of animals (elephants, antelopes, leopards, monkeys, birds, butterflies …), but most likely only see birds, monkeys and butterflies. Still, the experience of the suspension bridge is worth it.
ELMINA – It’s an amazing little town and one of my favorites in Ghana. It is a fishing village, where you can stroll through the harbor, the old town and castles of St George (on foot of the beach), one of the largest in Ghana, where slaves were stored and St. Jago Castle The top of the hill), where the whites lived, will make you feel part of the terrible story that was lived here. A place where thousands of slaves were stored. In the mornings all the boats arrive and the rhythm of the port is frantic, whereas in the afternoons everything is more calm. In the castle of San Jorge , on the beach, you can see how canoes carve wood and is full of children playing and bathing on the beach. There are olitas glued to the two sides of the pier where the canoes enter and it looks very good, it catches very small, but it is full of shit. Look where you step, because it’s undermined. Also on the beaches on the left and right of the castle there are two huge beaches, full of peaks. From the hill next to the castle of St. Jago , you will have one of the most fascinating panoramas of the trip and you will better understand the city. The name of Elmina, took it for its gold mines and is that still today you can see people on the beaches digging for gold. Something nice to see, but they do not like to be seen. The city is smitten with children and at night, it is dangerous, little tourism here, to say almost nothing. Just use your common sense. Here I was lucky enough to attend a wedding and a funeral. The truth is that it is difficult to distinguish them, because the two are a party, but the weddings are very similar to ours and you need an invitation, while the funerals last 3 days, one of mourning, another one of celebration and another one of celebration and is involved all the city. Very different from what we are accustomed to and although it sounds strange, I stay with the last two days of the funeral. It is celebrated that you pass to a better life.
The truth is that Elmina is a magical place and I recommend to spend a couple of days here. Highly Recommended .
Leaving Elmina, on the way to Takoradi, there are a couple of very beautiful beaches; BRENU AKYINIM and AMPEYI . A paradise of palm trees and white sand about 15 km from Elmina. Another playón I thought KO-SA. There are olitas, but nothing special. In SHAMA , more concretely in ABOESI , there is a pointbreak of rights quite protected of the wind. Search Fort. St. Sebastian and you will find the wave. Similar to Fort Good Hope, but in my opinion of worse quality. It is away from the main road.
Returning to the main road again you will arrive at SEKONDI-TAKORADI , twin cities separated by 10 km and forming the 3rd urban center of Ghana … if you like noise, chaos, concrete jungle … this is your site, but having So close to Busua, I recommend picking up groceries and getting out of the city quickly.
BUSUA – Only 20 km from Takoradi is this paradise on earth. Busua is a small fishing and tourist village, whose main attraction is its huge and beautiful beach, surrounded by palm trees and with the jungle behind. It has a very relaxed atmosphere, with a hippie air, which is appreciated after the madness of the cities. It is a small village with several accommodations to stay on foot from the beach. Among these accommodations, I stayed in one of the most shabby , Peter’s Place , but one of the most authentic. Peter and his wife are two lovely Ghanaians, he speaks some Spanish from his time as a fisherman in Las Palmas and she is possibly one of the best cooks I have ever met. For 5 euros a night, you’ll be in front of the peak. On the right side you have the small and unique surf shop / school in Ghana, Black Star Surf Shop , where there are several kids who have been surfing for a few years thanks to the work that Peter Nardini , an American and Mr. Brights Côte d’Ivoire) have been carrying out in the area as volunteers for some years. However, there are rumors in town that the school will close soon, so this would be a very good project to get involved and support. This is the only place in Ghana, where you will see surfers, in total calculation there are less than 15 surfers in all of Ghana and here there are about 10 kids, including Clement (Slater), Bebe (Mr Irons), Kofy … good People and some surfing already pretty decent. I have given some class with them and have taught them some things and the truth that they are sponges, eager to learn surfing and hear stories of other waves. Surfing with them has been fun and sure to soon they will surf much better, because they are all day in the water. Busua is the place in Ghana where you will be surfing with people, the rest of the trip you will surf totally alone. This site shows that over the years it may be the reference surfer site of the country. Next to the school is the Okorye Tree restaurant , a good place to have a beer, or relax after surfing. Good place, lots of peace, tranquility … and one of the few beaches relatively clean, but also dirty. Arrive with good waves and I have spent here one of the best weeks of the trip.
A classic day in Busua was getting up at 7 am, surfing, running all over the beach, stretching, going to talk to the fishermen and seeing what pieces they had captured the night before (everything that comes into the networks welcome) , Dolphins (sharks, sharks (every day and some more than 4 meters, if there are buses in Ghana), lobsters (at 7 euros a kilo, I have turned purple) …. Go for a walk around the bridge and the river, go to the village to buy fruit and water, surf, relax on the beach, go surfing, go back to the beach, stretch, surfing at the last minute, have a beer in the bar Rasta and watch football, go to dinner where Mama Florence ” Nacho my love ” (the best place in all of Busua to eat, rich and cheap), go to the beach, make a bonfire and listen to music. A dream of life and after a few days in the village, people greet you “Soldier” “Rastaman” “Original”, remember your name, invite you to their homes … one of the most recommended places to visit in Ghana and A good place to train and feel Irie .
As for surfing this area is the most consistent of the entire coast. Glassy in the mornings and afternoons, the waves work best when the tide rises. It has good peaks all over the beach, being the one in front of Black Star , the highest quality, although to the left of the beach is where more sea enters. To the right of the beach there is a good point break on the right, very fun and if you continue rowing you will find Black Mamba , the most sugarcane wave; A derechón and one of the best waves in Ghana and paddling to the right (about 15 min), there are two more point breaks and a new discovery of wave, baptized as LP’S . Watch out for rocks and hedgehogs. In front of Busua is the island of ABOKWA , which looks like a postcard with its two palmerites and good waves to the left and right of the island. The left I liked more, much more powerful, but watch out for the rocks and the last session because it stays dry. The right is softer, but nobler. You can go paddling (20 min.), Or ask a fisherman to approach you, jump off the boat and hopefully remember to come back for you. The island of Nunu Busua has very good waves, but the truth is that the feeling of being alone on the island, having seen sharks before, gives a little paranoia and does not spring. So on a short stretch, many choices. Busua, crossing distances, has reminded me of El Palmar (Cadiz), or Playa Hermosa (Costa Rica), although it has to be more selective, because many waves close, especially on smaller days.
Busua is one of those places where from the moment you arrive, until you leave, it will seem like time does not pass, or at least you do not want it to happen fast. Good pipes, waves, several options nearby, a village where you will soon feel at home, welcoming and charming people … a good place to live and one of the places that I have fallen in love with in Ghana. I love this place . Highly recommended .
Walking through Busua beach to the west, you will find a small road that will take you 10 minutes to BUTRE , one of the most beautiful beaches I have seen in Ghana, with an islet and a small estuary to the right of the beach and good waves , Although of inferior quality that its neighbor Busua and enters less sea.
From Busua to the east you will pass an old bridge and walk 20 min. You will arrive at DIXCOVE , a rather dilapidated town, which seems to be drawn from a scary movie and gives the impression of collapsing at any moment. It is a large town, or small town, full of canoes and fishermen, with a castle ( Metal Cross ) at the top of the hill, where you will see a small island with a lighthouse and behind the right point break, where you can surf totally alone , A long and fun, but rather rocky wave. From the port are 10 minutes paddling.
At 12 kms from Dixcove is a very nice beach AKWIDAA, where there are olitas at the mouth of the river and there is a very cool place to stay at the foot of the beach.
After Akwidaa and back to Agona Junction , the next surf spot and my favorite of the whole trip, is CAPE THREE POINTS , the southernmost stretch of coast in Ghana, the southernmost town in West Africa and certainly where more sea Enter from all over the country. Getting to Cape Three Points is an adventure in itself, but the trip is well worth it. There is only a trot of entry and exit to the village and after a tight hour, going by fire, through a bumpy red dirt road that runs through amazing villages and one of the most virgin and populated forests in all of Ghana , You will arrive at this humble village of coast, but enigmatic and with one of the beaches more clean and with better waves of all Ghana. There is only one place to stay, Escape3points , an accommodation run by a Canadian of Ghanaian mother, charming and who is also learning to surf. Here is a project to open a school, but to this day there is nothing. For 5 euros a night, the place is handsome, in the middle of the jungle. The only thing is that mosquitoes are very active in this area. In front of the accommodation you have two point breaks, one on the right, with a fast wave that moves away from the rocks and ends at the beach, while the left break point goes over the rocks and has a couple of fairly powerful stretches. With larger size the wave is better because it moves away from the rocks. The two point breaks are separated by a row of rocks and a palm tree that divides the beach into two. It is a paradisiac beach, where tourism does not arrive and where you will surf completely alone. To the left of the beach, under the lighthouse, this is the best point break right and for my taste one of the best waves in Ghana. It is a long and fun wave, with several sections. It receives enough sea and at low tide, which is when it works best, it gives an air to Killer Point (Morocco). In the town (barely 500 inhabitants) there is not much, to say nothing, but it is worth going up to the lighthouse and see the whole panorama and understand why they call the site the cape of the 3 points. One of the most beautiful views in all of Ghana. To the right there is another beach with waves. This is the best spot on the coast to see whales. Without a doubt this has been one of my favorite places of the trip and I recommend to spend a few days. Paradise of peace, tranquility and good waves. In love with this place and it is where I have caught the biggest and most powerful waves of all surfari. Highly Recommended .
Passing Cape3Points you will arrive at PRINCESS TOWN , where there are good waves, with a point break of right and near this MUTRAKNI POINT , of the few point breaks of left and a town that is called Egymbra , where there is a sanctuary of crocodiles. Past Princess Town you will arrive at a spot that looks like a fairy tale, MIAMIA , which forms a peninsula, with good waves on both sides, left and right.
The last big city, before crossing to Ivory Coast, is AXIM , a very beautiful city, with an amazing port, its castle (as not), Fort Saó Antonio , 2nd oldest fort of the country and some reefs, but nothing of Quality and very dirty water. Even so, I recommend walking around the city and losing you by the port, because you will feel that you are inside a movie. The best of Axim is that it is next to two of the most beautiful beaches in all of Ghana, AWANGAZULE and especially ANKROBA , where if there are waves and I recommend stopping for a couple of days. It’s like a postcard, full of palm trees and white sand. There is a good place to stay at the foot of the beach and the waves are very similar to those in Somo. It works best in plea. From Axim to Ankroba there is a 45 min walk. By a path that is attached to the beach and is brutal, with the jungle on one side and the beach on the other. You greet many fishermen and farmers with their machetes. Never stop, smile, greet and be what God wants. Not at night.
But north of Axim there are very beautiful beaches. Perhaps the most recommended is BEYIN , but more than anything because from here you have 5Km. The village of NZULEZO , which is on the water and where can only be accessed by canoe. I was disappointed to see so much tourist, but if you’ve gotten so far, it’s worth it.
The last surf spot in the north, 5 km from the Ivory Coast border, is HALF ASSINI . There are olitas, the port is full of life and the beach is very cool. Near this area is ANKASA , one of the many reserves of the country, where to see all kinds of bugs.
My idea was to have crossed to Ivory Coast, but after fighting for my visa in Elubo (to see it) and not getting it, for not wanting to pay the bribe that the corrupt polis of the border asked for and to see that the sea stayed, I decided Back to Accra. I left my boards, grabbed a small backpack, and went inside to meet the other Ghana .
NORTH OF ACCRA
My first excursion, as it could not be, was to visit ABURI (1h from Accra) after learning that Rita Marley , following her family tree I finish in this town and ride the mythical STUDIO ONE ; From where comes much of the best reggae music that is currently heard in the world.
From here I went to KOFORIDUA , a fascinating city, where is the oldest bead market in West Africa. A nice tour from here, would go to the Boti waterfalls . There are many waterfalls throughout Ghana, but these are among the most beautiful in Ghana. Nearby are the waterfalls of Akaa . In AKOSOMBO you will see the great dam they have built, to contain Lake Volta. For many a necessary good, for others, a waste of money, just as things are in Ghana.
KUMASI (5 hours from Accra) is the 2nd city of Ghana with 1.5 million inhabitants. It is a city rich in gold and diamonds, with Obuasi , as the most important gold mining center in the country. I thought it was crazy city, much louder and louder than Accra, with a brutal traffic and everything bad you can think of … still, it is worth knowing, although you see very hard things. The must visit here and where you will go crazy is in the huge Kejetia market; Say it is the largest outdoor market in Africa, with more than 10,000 official posts and thousands of unofficial ones. It is a labyrinth and it seems like chaos, but if you explain it makes sense. I threw myself a day and a half in the market of shopping and bargaining and certainly has been one of the highlights of the trip. I love the markets and today this is the most brutal I have ever been to. From Kumasi, a good excursion is to go to Bia national park, where you can see all kinds of bugs. Other excursions are to go to the nature sanctuary of Owabi , or go to Lake Bosummtwi , Ghana’s most extensive freshwater lake, which has very cool villages on the shores. All this area is very good to buy fabrics, being Wonoo the best place to buy.
Another amazing city is TAMALE and from here you can visit the national park of Bui , or the monastery sanctuary of Boadeng-Fiema , but surely the best option is to visit the Mole National Park, the best reserve to visit animals in the country. In Tamale you will feel that you are in another country, it is Muslim Ghana. It is a bustling city, but at the same time quiet. I liked it a lot and the market is very handsome and it is more of crafts and fabrics, although you can find everything. A good place to spend a couple of days.
Everyone in Ghana advised me not to travel north with the Burkina Faso border, because there are still many problems. However, I thought it was the best part of the trip. Maybe because I had been a month in the country and I felt comfortable moving around, but I really think it’s because of a city that has fallen in love, BOLGATANGA . The biggest city in the north and although noisy and at times chaotic, like all the big cities, the people are wonderful, perhaps because they are not accustomed to tourism and it is a place that I recommend. It has something mystical, enigmatic that until you do not go, you are not aware that I had you trapped. If you want to enter Burkina Faso, the border is in Paga , where there is a pond of sacred crocodiles and that apparently is not as uncontrolled as Aflao , on the border of Togo, or Elubo , in the Ivory Coast.
Of all the African countries where I have been, Ghana is certainly the one I liked the most today. The people are coiled, the weather is good, 24h music, a thousand paradisiac beaches, it is very cheap, the food (spicy) is rich and it is a relatively comfortable country to travel, especially in public transport. Although bus and train stations are a movie in and of itself, it is definitely the best way to get around the country. After so many trips to Africa, I have become an expert at picking up people, and although people hallucinate with the ” White Man and his boards”, they are certainly the cheapest, effective (also dangerous) More comfortable, to travel through Africa.
Life in general is ridiculously cheap for our pockets, even so, there is hardly any tourism. The bad reputation he has outside Africa, perhaps explains. I have not met any Spaniards in a little over a month and with very few whites throughout the trip.
The weather is very good, although at times the humidity will make you sweat like a chicken. It rains little and when it does everything becomes impassable.
Ghana has EVERYTHING and there are a thousand things to see and do. Each day is intense (especially traveling alone) and different from the previous one. There are things you see and people you know that they forget. I do not need to go to Africa to feel privileged, I have always felt this way and I am aware that depending on where you are born your destiny will be one or the other. For many things, but especially for my love of Africa, I see it very different from what I saw on the first trips; I see it better, although there are still many things to improve. You see so much in Ghana, so much poverty, so much inequality, so many people barely living, at the foot of the street, with nothing to eat … and yet, this is Africa and you have to be positive and think that this continent is going to be the future , Who already have a promising present, since their past and their wealth was stolen, with more than 400 years of slavery.
The country is now stable, except for the north that borders Burkina Faso, where there is still some problem and many people do not recommend traveling, but nevertheless I found the most beautiful and safe areas. Ghana is a paradise. Of the African countries where I have been, it is one of the safest countries, but do not forget where you are. There are many needs and you are an andante.
As for SURFING , I was very positively surprised. If the interior is amazing, the coast comes out. The west of the country is where the best waves are. The water is warm and there are not many dangers in the water. It is a very steady wave destination and you will always have a little surfing. Almost everything is beachbreaks, or right point breaks. Surfing alone, on paradisiacal beaches, will often compensate for having to do so in a sea full of dirt, undoubtedly the great problem of African coasts. I’ve never had as much expectation surfing as in Ghana. Surfing surrounded by children screaming and surfing next to me with pieces of wood is something I will not forget. Many times the search has no reward, but places like Kokrobite, Fete, Fort Good Hope, Busua and especially Cape Three Points are spots that I will not forget. Going for waves to Ghana, it may seem a bit extravagant, but surfing is the excuse, to know corners of the world, that many times you would never know. It has not been the best surf trip of my life, but it has been an unforgettable trip and one of the most enriching experiences of my life. Many of the most beautiful beaches I have seen in my life are here and today there are no more than 15 people surfing in all of Ghana, but possibly over the years, it will become a surfer destination.
Talk to the fishermen, walk through the ports, many people come and understand that you also know how to read and love the sea. The bustle of the beaches. The jungle that surrounds the beaches. The towns of the coasts. The beaches of the west and those of Ada. Teach surfing to children. Meet the locals …. Thousands of virgin coast stretches all over Ghana. A lot of potential and a thousand sites to explore. Bad access makes searching even more special. I always think that with a boat, it would be much easier to attack many of the spots.
If someone asks me today “is it worth going to surf to Ghana ?” I would answer with a resounding YES . Ghana is worth it and also has very good waves and wonderful places that seem like paradise on earth.
But the most beautiful of Ghana are their WOMEN . Whenever I travel to Africa I flip with the strength and beauty of African women. A lot of Black Beauty and really are the ones that move the continent. They charge, they work, they cook, they raise, they protect, they love, the pain, that because of the poverty, many are forced to the prostitution and they will ask you to marry them or they will simply propose you sexual favors, for only 5 or 10 euros, That AIDS is a reality and it will depend on you …
Ghana is worth it for the MEN you are going to meet, whose stories are often tougher than life itself. Realities that are not ours and that are easy to empathize with, but difficult to understand with our Western eyes. Proud of being Ghanaians, with unparalleled nobility, loyalty, honesty and dignity.
Ghana is worth it for CHILDREN . They are the future and it’s cool how everyone runs to greet you and ask you the English that they learn at school ” What’s your name ?” ” How are U ?” … and little else they know. The first day of the trip flipped because they said ” peace ” all the time, but soon I learned that what they wanted to say was ” please “. They are assaulted, many left to their fate, with very numerous families that can not keep so many children. Stomachs swollen, navels out, naked, dirty … is the hardest to see, but they do not lose their smile. There is a lot of hunger in Africa and many inequalities and children suffer the most.
I hope that things change in Africa, a continent that for me is past, present and has a promising future, despite the negative impact that the West tube and no matter how much it continues today to turn away from their problems, Which are none other than lack of education, inequality, hunger …
On this trip, I had the opportunity to know a very nice PROJECT and in which I will start to overturn and soon you will have news. It is about creating a school merging the dance, the drums and what I enter is in English and surfing. The goal is to get kids out of the street and in exchange for attending classes, receive education, food, a roof where to sleep, affection …. Thank God I have met the right people and I will try to involve as many people as possible. In the meantime…. See you soon MAMA AFRICA.
“NANTI YE GHANA MEDAASE” (Goodbye Ghana, Thank you)
ONE LOVE .
Photos & Text: Nachete García