Hawaii is the most isolated islands archipelago in the world. Each island has its own history, culture … and especially many different waves that receive the strength of the Pacific Ocean, without any obstacle and immense power, which fills the batteries and adrenaline of thousands of surfers every year. Surfing mecca, with figures such as Duke (the father of modern surfing), Eddie Aikau … and thousands of good surfers who have made surfing, not just a sport, but a way of seeing and feeling life; At the same time, they have made of Hawaii a legend and an obligatory step of pilgrimage for any surfer. Since Hawaii was discovered by Captain Cook in 1778, many things have changed on the island, especially the life and traditions of Hawaiians, which have been influenced by the amount of tourists and haoles that arrive each year. Its natural beauty remains intact in its essence, despite the destruction that has occurred in many coasts. People continue with the motto “Keep the country Country”.
One of the greatest playgrounds for any surfer, his waves are a great test and a climax in the life of any surfer, who wants to prove himself and the strength of the sea. This is the history of our surfari for 2 months on some of these islands, describing many of its waves, telling our experiences and enjoying the beauty and spirit aloha that permeates the islands and many of its inhabitants.
We flew on January 22, after spending 2 weeks in California. At HONOLULU airport we were picked up by Papito Tarifa, who had been with his wife Maribel for a couple of days. When you arrive at Honolulu airport and you see the welcome ALOHA, it gives rise. We arrived with one of the biggest swells of the year and with the call cast to start the big waves Eddie Aikau.
Talking about Hawaii, talking about surfing, like talking about the Duke, is talking about the father of modern surfing …. and talking about surfing on Oahu is talking about NORTH SHORE; Mecca of the surfing and an incredible site. In Kaena , the + point to the west in the north, there are good waves to explore, such as Mokuleia; Few people, whales, sharks … and if you want long waves and with very few people this is the place. Many different points.
Waialua is where we stayed, which was very handsome, because every day we made the entire North Shore at least 2 times and guaranteed to surf in the best spot every day. Get up in the morning every day and see Avalanches , the tow-in wave in front of the house, gave you the quick message, people doing tow-in = olones, no people = many choices. It is an olón, that breaks out of a reef that extends to the same beach where we lived. Many of the days of the noise of the waves against the coral, could hardly sleep. A very magical place.
Being in the water on the North Shore of Hawaii means being side by side with many of the best surfers in the world. All day seeing good surfers, good tubes, maneuvers and big waves, in the end the eye gets used to that feeling and is a show both inside and outside the water. Panani Sullivan (power), Kalani Champman (who + I liked everyone, the best tubes), Jason Federico, Kalani Alexander, Kalani Rob (mythical see you in Pipe), Bonga Perkins (awesome to see you move the longboard) , The legendary Mike Stewart, Tamayo Perry (Pipe Classic), Bruce & Andy Irons, Derek Ho (the man), Jason & Coco Ho (the saga continues), Dane Reynolds Mike Healy (Kamikaze), Jason Shibata, Jordy Smith, Flynn Novak (almost killed in Pro Pipeline Championship), Dean Morrison, Sunny Garcia (Makaha’s King, after Buffalo Clear), Kainoa Mckee Tube with the paddle board in Pipe, as if I was catching a glimpse is brutal), Megan Abubo, Keala Kenelly (every time I went down Pipe, you feel like many want it to fall, I do not know why, but it was a general feeling, for the Karma so chunky and so chulesco that I guess I guess … and the truth that worked, hit a Wipe-out in front of me im Depressing) Liam McNamara (mythical with his case-screen); Dave Rastovich “Rasta”, the Beschen brothers, Jaime O’brien … and thousands and thousands more pros.
HALEIWA is the quintessential surfing town of Oahu, taking away Waikiki and the crowds and nerve center of the North Shore; Shops, bars and a little bit of everything. Nice town, with a harbor from where boats leave with cages, to see the sharks .. the worrying thing is that they do not go so far … .and above all an olon that scores for the Triple Crown and does not surprise me. It is one of the waves that we + surfed, because of the proximity of house, we saw it from the window. A derechón that is getting dry, good tubes and an intense and powerful wave from the beginning, until the end. World class wave. There are days that there are enough people, but usually not many people and is one of the things that + surprised us Oahu, not so many people, after the triple crown, many pros come home, Hawaiians stay , Others come out, but it is certainly off season and January, February and March are still pumping and there are far fewer people in the water.
Very good bathrooms in Haleiwa, a thousand moments. Full of turtles, like the entire North Shore and there is quite a shark atmosphere, in fact many of the attacks that have occurred on the North Shore have occurred here.
It also has left waves, especially when this is small, when there is left size is little + that the descent, look for tube, a cutback and the wave is undoing over the channel, the harbor and the estuary. On the other side of that estuary, there is a tip with waves + soft, called Puaena Point . There are days that are good, but when that happens, it means that everything is great, atmosphere of longboards and especially paddle boards, every time + all over the world, especially in Hawaii (where + I have seen).
Laniakea , or the beach of the turtles, as we baptized it, is a good right, the left is lost on the channel. Usually there are enough waves, but it is always better than it looks, good wave with different sections and many days is protected + the rest of the waves. Many people, good wave. Tourists and Chinese invade the beach to see turtles, huge. On the left, Himalayas , a good wave and the name says it all.
Further north is the bay where Jockos (left) and Chuns Reef (derechon) are often protected from the wind. They are two olones, that produce waves of quality, with great power, good tubes and possibility of good maneuvers. Very good sessions. Further north, you will find Marijuanas , a mythical wave that had its golden years and where there are still many mythical.
WAIMEA BAY is one of those waves, where everyone who loves the sea must prove himself. Many of the days when this small, you can surf the section of Pinballs only or with 2 or 3 more people, but when it enters sea, they begin to leave mythical and there is more fight in the water; So everything, is very simple, row as if the world was over at that time and go down decisively. Do the take off and see the rocks nearby, the church … One of our dreams fulfilled, good sessions and unforgettable moments. Also, the site, is one of the places with more history and more magical. For its waterfalls, its beauty and, above all, the figure of Eddie Aikau, who was chief rescue officer of the bay for many years and for his heroism became a Hawaiian icon and legend of surf culture; A legend that continues to live with a phrase that is in your head in the serious bathrooms “EDDIE WOULD GO”, so breed and give it.
Talking about Log Cabins & Rockpile is talking about tubes, like talking about Off the Wall … honestly the big days I found the wave + hard. Here, you have in the retina the blows and tubazos of the South African Shaun Thomson and especially of Mr. Buttons, my favorite surfer when I was a child, with those switches that was made of regulating in a reentry and finishing him of goofy. It is an olon where you either go through the tube or your option is to eat the rocks.
Surfing at PIPELINE & BACKDOOR is another of our dreams fulfilled. Getting to Pipe’s Beach Park, park and see the banks in memory of Ronnie Burns, entering the beach is somehow like feeling a gladiator entering the coliseum; Everyone watching the show, photographers, surfers, curious, tourists in front of the most emblematic and most photogenic wave in the world. After more than a month obsessed with surfing the wave daily, in the end you feel at home. So many tubes and good moments, certainly one of the highlights of the trip. Pipeline is a shuttle, the take off is many times of laughter and you have not finished getting off and I quickly get into the tube, or get ready. Watch my brother go down and have a tubazo … a thousand moments in my head and heart forever. The reef is one of the most dangerous in the world and a bad fall, hopefully end up alone in the hospital. Backdoor is a tubazo and it is adrenaline, not only because of the wave itself, but because you know that a bad fall, means to eat the series … and eating a set in Pipe is passing fear.
Ehukai Beach, Pipeline’s Beach Park, offers fun sessions, never to be underestimated, and where the little ones get ready for the future tubes in Pipe. Gas Chambers (right, also left) gave us very good sessions and some of the most powerful waves of the trip. Pupukea is another fun wave.
Rocky Point is one of the most consistent waves on the North Shore and although it is one of the waves where most people are, it is worth it because you always get good baths. Many photographers, many eager for a good photo and above all, very good waves.
Sunset is one of my favorite waves, because of everything that surrounds it, the history of the site, the atmosphere and the force of the wave, which is often unforeseeable. Hawaii is the only place in the world where there are more people in the water with big waves than when they are small. Being in the water at Sunset on a big day and fighting your spike with so many good surfers, until you hook one of those pumps, it’s very special. Many times you see that you are screaming of the adrenaline, while you see a background very similar to Pipe, especially in the 2nd section, where the wave is collected and goes dry. When you get a super serion, you would not like to be there, because it is pure power, but outside of that, all moments are indelible.
On the other side of Sunset this, Backyards , very good wave and with half of people. Where there are people is in Velzyland , probably because of the houses and because it is one of the driest waves of the North Shore.
Following Highway 83 north, you come to Turtle Bay Resort, private beach, with a funny olita and … .golf. High Level.
From the North Shore to the EAST COAST , some things change; Zone + tourist that the west, + residential, 2nd homes for the Yankees, vacations and with some pretty beaches and good olitas. The main problem of this area is that coral reefs often stop the sea from reaching the beaches, as well as some islands and islets, so you have to step out from the reefs to look for the waves. In the area of Kahuku there are several beaches and funny olitas (7th hole), when the direction of the sea is good and the sea enters from the east. It is usually quite windy.
Laie is one of the beaches and one of the most beautiful bays on the island. In front there is The Island of Goat and further south, there is a fun wave, in front of Polynesian Cultural Center. The area of Hauula, Kahana and Kaawa are olitas , they are very nice beaches, but the wind and the reefs complicate the surfing. Further south, Keneohe Bay, is impresate, much level of houses, military zone and little surfing. Many military zones throughout the island and is that Hawaii because of its strategic location and what happened in Pearl Harbor, has become a military island. To get to the Mokapu peninsula, you will need permission.
KAILUA BAY is one of the most beautiful beaches in the whole island. Blue water, with a little island in front, where there are very good waves, especially the left, reminded me of the island of Tuamatu, which is on the outskirts of Gisborne in New Zealand. Canoeing area, picnic … very nice HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Lanikai Beach , is a little beach that looks a lot like Langre (Cantabria), saving the distances, I stay with Langre. Above this calita there is a very beautiful viewpoint, where much of the east coast is seen.
Going down Waimanalo Bay, good waves, good points, before reaching the beach park. Makapuu Beach & Makapu Head.
Arriving almost to the south of the island x the coast there are several reefs and good waves, but the most famous one is Sandy Beach , one of the waves that + fame has, especially for boogers and people who take the waves to Chest (many throughout Hawaii, even in Pipe), powerful and left bank on the rock slab. More name than another house, good for boggie. Next door there is a lovely calita and a pretty viewpoint where to see everything.
SOUTH of Oahu is surely where most of the waves are on the island, but it needs south swells. Much of the culture and surf industry is here.
In the Nui Peninsula area , Waialupe Peninsula , Waialae Beach …. there is little to scratch. Where the fun begins and the waves are already in the area of DIAMOND HEAD, on the small days there are many people learning, but when you enter sea there are very good waves, like Cliffs, Lighthouse, Sllepy Hollows, Suicides … one of the most beautiful areas of the island. Many things to do in Hawaii, surfing, hiking, diving, jet lag, helicopter ride to see the whole island, horseback riding, paragliding … .mil activities. There is a nice pass through this area and the Zoo and Aquarium.
To speak of WAIKIKI is to speak of skyscrapers, but it is also to speak of surfing, of the Duke …. and is to be in one of the tourist places par excellence of the Americans and of the world in general. Mandatory bath surfing in tandem on Duke’s beach, with Diamond Head in the background and hundreds of people in the water. Pure fun. Oahu’s most touristy area, with shops, nightlife, hotels and coastline … but with a thousand olitas like Publics, Queens, Canoes, Populars, 3’s, 4’s, Kaisers, Inbetweens, Rockpiles and especially the ALA MOANA area , where are the waves of more quality in my opinion. Baby Haleiwa, Big Lefts, Tennis Courts, Concessions, Big Rights, Kewalos (my favorite), Point Panic … a thousand olitas, which in small days show their quality, but with size, wind and swell, are Some of the best waves on the island. Hundreds of waves for all tastes and with reefs that seem drawn by the hand of God.
If you love history, you have a must visit to Pearl Harbor, a tragic place that changed the course of history and gave the official start to the 2nd world war.
HONOLULU is an amazing city and although at the beginning it is not what you are looking for, if you get lost in its streets, there are incredible areas. At the Stadium there is a very handsome market with all the traditional Hawaiian stuff.
In the southwestern part of the island, you will find EWA BEACH , a long, sandy beach with Waikiki and skyscrapers in the background. Waves all over the beach, but all locals and fishermen warn that it is an area of many sharks. ONeula Beach , leads to the south west corner of the island, industrial area, unappealing for surfing, although there are some olinhas in Nimitz and an olon inside the military base, Barber’s Point.
The west coast is much + Hawaiian, + makahas, more authentic and has many of the best waves on the island. When the North Shore is horrible, do not even think about it, because there is a good chance that the west will be epic.
Kahe Beach , Nanakuli , Maili Point , are good waves, but where the thing starts to cheer is in the Waianae area, next to the factory, there are good points, apprentices area, good right stuck to the jetty, lots of waves … but Without doubt the jewel of the west coast is MAKAHA , which means something like head or spiritual leader in Hawaiian. The house of Buffalo and Sunny Garcia , legends of surfing in Hawaii, is a world class, incredible site, gives an air to Two brothers in Tenerife, with mountains in the background. Very good waves, the left also works, stays dry. One of the most fashionable surfing modalities here is surfing with the old wooden boards with which Hawaiians surfed traditionally. It is one of the places where we had the best sessions. The back wash that has the wave, gives hilarious sessions. The beach is out, the people … HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Continuing north on Highway 93 there are still good waves, Keeau , Kapaakai , Hawaiian Zone, in tents, shanty town, sticks, Mafia … waves, beautiful beaches, follow the road to the end, Up to the bay Of Yokohama … huge beach with a very powerful waterfront. Where the road ends, a dirt track begins, only in 4 × 4, searching. Unfortunately the road does not continue, that corner of the island until Kaena is military zone, the only option is to go back down, a shame that the island does not connect.
Seeing what I have written, I have very good moments in the head and above all, I realize the amount of good waves we have surfed all over the island and the amount of magic sites there are. We have been very lucky throughout the trip, surfing with pros, seeing level in the water, surfing everywhere …. Hawai is a paradise on earth, that if you surf, it is even more paradise.
Rainbow Country is one of my favorite songs by Bob Marley , the country of the rainbow is undoubtedly HAWAII, where I have seen some of the most beautiful of my life …. and some of the best waves I have surfed . MAHALO OAHU, ALOHA HAWAII.